701 E Burnside St., 503-946-8151, burnsidebrewco.com. 11 am-10 pm Sunday-Tuesday, 11 am-midnight Wednesday-Saturday.

Burnside's parking lot and killer location (on, er, Burnside) means it could sell liquefied garbage and still make bank. But to its credit, Burnside has retained its commitment to creativity, churning out a long list of seasonals that are all intriguing.

(Burnside Brewing, Maya Setton)
(Burnside Brewing, Maya Setton)
(Burnside Brewing, Cameron Browne)
(Burnside Brewing, Cameron Browne)

If you get the full flight of 20, you'll see that sometimes they do reach a little too far. The Fleur de Creme was a lavender-cookie-scented horror, and the sea-salt-tomato-water-and-urchin gose was bland and forgettable. But the straw-gold Morticia was as crisp, punchy and aromatic as any pale ale we've ever had, and the Puddletown Brown was dark, hefty and hoppy without being too viscous or sweet. We strongly recommend dropping by during the justly famous happy hour.

Drink this: If you're over the classic Sweet Heat, order the happy-hour nachos ($7) along with the Permafrost, Burnside's sweet, strongish take on a winter warmer. 

(Burnside Brewing, Christine Dong)
(Burnside Brewing, Christine Dong)
(Burnside Brewing, Maya Setton)
(Burnside Brewing, Maya Setton)
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