11700 NE 54th Court, Vancouver, Wash., brotherassbrewing.com, 360-607-3275. 4-7 pm Thursday-Friday, or by appointment.

"It's a cross between a monastery and a farmhouse," says Wally Wakeman, the gray-bearded brewer behind Brother Ass. Wakeman is talking about his garage, where he runs a nano-brewery that primarily distributes in Vancouver—though he did once tick an item off his bucket list by being poured at the Horse Brass (see sidebar at left). Brother Ass is perhaps closer to homebrew than a commercial operation, but there's a skillful hand behind the helm. Wakeman's Dappled Apple Scruple ale, brewed to taste like apple pie, does the trick: It's spicy and dry, with distinct notes of malt and butter. Wakeman makes a decent CDA as well, leaning much more on chocolate and malt than hop. 

Drink this: Wally's fun beers are his best. Alongside the Dappled Apple, his Chocolate Orange Ale smells and tastes exactly like the treat you'd find in your stocking on Christmas Eve.

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