Tryst is a Beautiful Refuge in the Old Town Thunderdome

That kickass burger is $5 on Wednesdays

(Thomas Teal)

19 SW 2nd Ave., 503-477-8637, bartryst.com. 4 pm-2:30 am Wednesday-Sunday.
Happy hour 4-7 pm daily:
$1 off most drinks, $7 burger.

Established: March 4, 2016

Tryst is less rendezvous than refuge, the only place in Old Town that seems immune to Old Town's Thunderdome of chaos and decay. In the long burnished-hardwood bar space once home to Berbati's, the Ankeny Alley hang feels somehow better preserved than its predecessor, a domestic hideaway for those whose true home is dark bars—a feeling of warm and boozy welcome not dissuaded by friendly owner AdaZoe Freeman, who's almost always there slinging low-cost cocktails from a surprisingly thick book of them.

photo by Henry Cromett

There's a healthy smattering of '90s-style Asian fusion on the menu—and this includes the beefy burger ($12 with fries), which mixes the chile-garlic of hoisin with Sichuan pepper infused into house pickles. The fact the burger is $7 at happy hour—and a mere $5 on Wednesday—remains one of the great privileges of the center city. 

Bar story: That beautiful tangle of Jackson Pollock expressionist paint in the massive artwork behind the bar was made by an artist who lives in the upstairs bum apartments.

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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