All Things at Free House Hang in Elegant Balance

Northeast Fremont Street's Free House is a place of resolute middlebrow comforts.

(Leah Nash)

1325 NE Fremont St., 503-946-8161, freehousepdx.com. 4 pm-midnight daily. Happy hour 4-5:30 pm daily: $1 off everything.

Established: January 2009, re-established 2012

Northeast Fremont Street's Free House is a place of resolute middlebrow comforts. There are fancy $7 hot dogs made from Olympia Provisions' world-beating frank, shoestring fries, house ketchup and a pleasant, half-covered patio. And there is a reasonably priced $9 burger with an expertly toasted bun, very seasoned meat and mild-spiced sauce, plus a thick slab of Tillamook atop the patty. But mostly, there is a quality hard to come by—a sense of well being that comes from all things in the right proportion, whether the smoke in the smoked mac 'n' cheese ($7), the elegant touch of Turkish Cynar in a No Hassle Night ($9) that's otherwise a tequila-based Manhattan, or a patio that's half covered, half sun porch. Perhaps its midnight closing time seems early, but elegance and balance are virtues that require compromise.

Bar story: Free House is best known in its current incarnation—split between the old Victory Bar chef and one of the owners of Olympia Provisions and Bar Casa Vale—but there was a founding Free House.

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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