2515 Portland Road, Suite B, Newberg, 971-832-8131, cvbrewing.com. 4-9 pm Monday-Thursday, 4-10 pm Friday, noon-10 pm Saturday, noon-8 pm Sunday.

Not so long ago, Oregon's small-town brewpubs took a shotgun approach to winning over the townies, many of whom they were introducing to craft beer. Nowadays, of course, there are sudsniffers everywhere, and spots like Ale Apothecary and De Garde use their remote locations to enhance their mystique. Chehalem Valley is a throwback. This Newberg spot opened behind Ye Olde Pizza in 2011, but feels like it could be a decade older.

The small, basic and family-friendly brewpub is a place where you'll find the Youngstown State Penguins game on one TV while the Bucks battle the Nuggets on the other. The ales tend to be traditional styles (blonde, amber, brown, porter, stout) and are balanced, if also a little muted and not quite as fresh as you'd prefer.

Drink this: I liked the Blackridge Stout on nitro. The chocolatey dark malt can wear age well.

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