Lucky Lab Is Delightfully Old Portland as Fuck

Since opening 11 years ago, the Northwest Quimby Street Lucky Lab feels delightfully un-fucked-with by the new-build neighborhood creeping around it.

1945 NW Quimby St., 503-517-4352, luckylab.com. Noon-10 pm Sunday, 11 am-11 pm Monday-Wednesday, 11 am-midnight Thursday-Saturday.

Since opening 11 years ago, the Northwest Quimby Street Lucky Lab feels delightfully un-fucked-with by the new-build neighborhood creeping around it. The bar is still cavernous, adorned from wall to wall in dog art, and exists in a design-and-function brewpub stasis unaltered since opening day. Much of the beer comes from way back when: The Superdog IPA and Stumptown Porter have been the brewery's flagships since the original Hawthorne brewery opened in 1995. And while the Lab's not Portland's only dog-themed brewery—woof woof, Hair of the Dog—it's got to be the most dog-forward.

There are dogs on everything here, from dog bowls to an enormous "No Barking" sign hanging above the water station and an outdoor dog lounge. There is a modest, occasional barrel program, and one of its finest beers remains the Hawthorne's Best Bitter. It's a place where you stop in for Terry's tuna melt and pitchers for $14.70 after parking your bike at a maroon indoor bike rack. You might have grown up going to places like these—every bit as much a pub as it is a brewery. And so it continues down here on Quimby: Old Portland as fuck, same as it ever was.

Drink this: The Superdog IPA (6.7 percent ABV) is an IPA from another era, trapped in amber from the prehistoric days of the IPA boom and a nicely balanced take on the form.

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